We’ll cover every aspect from start to finish in order to equip any beginner with the knowledge and confidence they need to reupholster dining chair seats.

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After I posted this photo of my dining room to Instagram a few weeks ago and mentioned that I reupholstered the chairs, I got a few inquiries as to how to do that. So I thought it would be worth writing a step-by-step tutorial on how to reupholster a dining chair seat!

Let’s jump right to it, shall we?

How to Reupholster a Dining Chair Seat – Step by Step Tutorial

Choosing Upholstery Fabric for a Dining Chair

Before you can reupholster a dining chair you will need to consider your fabric! There are several factors you need to consider when choosing an upholstery fabric:

• How often will this chair be used (every meal, special occasions, just for show…)?
• By whom will this chair be used (adults, small children…)?
• How large is the seat and what scale of pattern do I want (lots of small detail, one large flower per seat…)?

Upholstery fabric durability is rated according to “double rubs” and fabric weight.

What is meant by “double rubs?”

Double rubs are the number of times a mechanical arm is moved back and forth over the fabric before the fabric fails. It’s estimated 3000 double rubs = approx. 1 year of use.

So what double rub count do you need?

Upholstery fabric durability is also defined by weight: Lightweight, Medium, Heavyweight, or in ounces per square yard.

Heavy duty upholstery fabric is usually more than 12 ounces per square yard.

How much fabric do I need to reupholster a dining chair seat?

To determine how much fabric you will need to purchase, follow these steps:

1. Remove the seat from your dining chair by loosening the screws on the underside of the seat.
2. Using a flexible measuring tape, start the measuring tape on the underside of your seat in the middle of the wood where you would staple; measure over the fullest part of your cushion, wrapping around to the opposite side of the wood frame under the seat.
3. Take that number and add at least an inch or two for “wiggle room.” I prefer to add 2 inches.
4. NOTE: If you are replacing the cushion with a new cushion you will need to add more according to the height of your new cushion.
5. Do the same in the opposite direction on your seat.
6. Take these numbers and calculate how many seats you can cover per yard (or whatever measurement you use). Keep in mind which direction the pattern runs on the fabric in relation to how it will appear on your seat.
7. Most upholstery fabrics come in widths of 54″ or even 60″ or 72″ – it just depends on the manufacturer.
8. TAKE PATTERN INTO CONSIDERATION. Consider what part(s) of the fabric pattern you want to have present on your seat or if it matters. For example, you may want a certain section of toile on each chair but the toile scene is only repeated once per yard. You may need more fabric to achieve that look.

Supplies Needed to Reupholster a Dining Chair

To upholster a dining chair seat there are a few supplies you will need. I’ve described them in great detail so you know why you need them and what I recommend or don’t recommend.

Sewing Scissors/Shears

Don’t attempt to use office supply (paper) scissors to cut your fabric – especially heavy upholstery fabric! You will risk getting unclean cuts and even snagging your fabric threads. I really love my 8″ dressmaker’s shears by Gingher. They have no trouble gliding right through the heaviest of upholstery fabric. Inversely, don’t ever use your sewing scissors on paper – it will dull them!

Staple/Tack Remover

This is for removing staples or upholstery tacks when you are removing the old fabric for your chair. Even if you’re not removing old fabric, it’s a good idea to have one of these for removing mistakes when stapling! I have a simple wooden handled one from Joann Fabric, but this one I recently found looks awesome.

Needle Nose Pliers

These are in case you need to remove broken staples or bits stuck in the wood. It happens more often than you’d think!

Screwdriver

You’ll need a screwdriver for detaching the seat from your chair – Philipps head or flathead depending on your screws.

Iron + Ironing Board

This is my least favorite part but very necessary! You’ll need to iron your fabric before you begin to remove any wrinkles. Trust me, it’s important!

Upholstery Stapler – Either Spring-Loaded or Pneumatic (plus air compressor)

It’s totally up to you which way you go on this. If this is the only upholstery project you will ever do, you may want to get an inexpensive spring-loaded stapler. They often have them at craft stores and on Amazon. I will say that the cheap ones from places like Joann are NOT my favorit. I find that they jam frequently. If you have many chairs to do or plan to do more upholstery, I recommend borrowing or purchasing a pneumatic stapler.

Don’t forget you’ll need an air compressor to power it! This pneumatic upholstery stapler I got from Amazon has been amazing! It has never jammed on me – even through my vintage chair project – and it comes with everything you need to get started (stapler, different sizes of staples, lubricating oil & maintenance kit). I bought a “long-nose” stapler to upholster vintage chairs that have a groove in which the fabric rests. You’ll see I’ve linked both my long-nose stapler and a crown stapler (more of a standard stapler) below.

Upholstery Staples

These are typically sold in the same aisle as the spring-loaded staplers or you can purchase them online. While it depends how thick your batting & fabric are, typically anything 1/4″ to 1/2″ is more than sufficient. You don’t want something too long that’s going to split your wood or be impossible to get out if you make a mistake.

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)

You should most definitely wear safety goggles (or similar) whenever you’re messing with staples – when removing and when stapling. Anytime you have sharp little metal bits potentially flying about you want to protect your eyes! Make sure you have goggles that you can clearly see through to be able to work safely.
You may also want to consider hearing protection if you are using an air compressor and potentially thin work gloves if you have sensitive hands and find the rubbing of scissors and pliers irritating. This is totally up to you – use your own judgement.

Upholstery Fabric

If you missed the part above on how to choose an upholstery fabric and how much you’ll need, scroll on up in this post! Did you know you can buy fabric on Amazon? Here’s the heavy duty fabric I used on our dining chairs.

Batting

I just use regular old batting from the quilting section of the fabric store. Batting just helps smooth everything out like the corners of the foam. You’ll need roughly the same amount as your upholstery fabric. You can purchase it at fabric stores or online here.

Foam (if replacing)

While I didn’t replace any foam for this tutorial (my chairs did not need it), you can reference step 3 of my vintage chair project to see how to cut foam to size. You can purchase foam at fabric stores like Joann Fabric or order it online, like this on Amazon.

Push Pins

These are not absolutely necessary, but they are helpful to hold fabric in place while you check placement.

For your convenience, here is a printable supplies checklist!

Now let’s reupholster a dining chair!!

Reupholstering a Dining Chair: Removing Old Fabric

Step 1: Prep your workspace

You will want to work in a space that does not have small children or pets present, if possible. You may want to spread out a drop cloth or floor covering to catch any flying staples or metal shards. (It makes for easier cleanup!) If you are using an air compressor make sure it is plugged in and pressurized. Gather all your supplies and turn on your music!

Step 2: Remove the seat from your dining chair

Turn your chair over and loosen the screws on the underside of your seat. Set them aside in a safe place like a jar or other container.

Step 3: Remove all staples or tacks

Use your staple/tack remover and pliers to remove the existing staples or tacks. Make sure you’re wearing eye protection for this! Slide (or wedge) the staple remover under each staple and pry it up. Use your needle nose pliers to pull out any broken staples or bits. Don’t feel badly if you break staples while trying to get them out. This happens all the time!

Step 4: Remove the existing fabric

Remove the existing fabric and batting (if you’re replacing the batting). Set it aside but don’t throw it away yet. Sometimes it’s helpful to reference the old fabric for making special cuts for corners.

Reupholstering a Dining Chair: Attaching New Fabric

Step 1: Iron your fabric

Trust me, you don’t want to skip this step! I personally don’t like ironing but it’s worth it to have smooth, taught fabric for a professional look. Be sure to turn your iron to an appropriate setting for your fabric. I like to keep mine around medium – just hot enough that it produces steam but not scorching. If your fabric came with care instructions be sure to read them first.

[If you are replacing chair foam, do that part now.] Visit this tutorial to learn how to cut upholstery foam to size.

Step 2: Lay out your batting

Lay your batting out and place your seat upside down on top of it (you are looking at the underside). Give yourself enough room around the edges to be able to wrap the batting and secure it to the wood frame, but not so much that you’re wasting a bunch. Cut your batting from the roll and set the roll aside. It doesn’t need to be perfectly precise.

Step 3: Lay out your fabric

Lay your fabric on a smooth, flat surface with the right side (printed side) down. Be sure the fabric pattern is oriented the correct way. Pick up your seat and batting (still loose) and place them on top of the fabric. Try to get it as straight as possible (don’t worry, we’ll check in a minute!).

Leave enough room around the edges that you can wrap the fabric up to the wood frame, but not so much that you’re wasting a lot of fabric. If you have a particular part of the fabric that you want centered on your seat, you may want to lay the seat right side up and place your fabric on top before turning everything over. That way you can get a better feel for pattern placement. Cut the amount of fabric you need and set the remainder aside.

Once you have everything as straight as possible, pull the fabric over the frame both at the top and bottom of your seat and place two pushpins through the fabric into the wood to temporarily hold the fabric in place.

Flip your seat over to the front side to check for placement and straightness. Make adjustments as needed.

Step 4: Prep the stapler

Make sure your staples are loaded correctly in your stapler. If you are using a pneumatic stapler, be sure to check the recommended PSI (pounds per square inch) of your stapler and set your compressor accordingly. My pneumatic stapler requires a minimum PSI of 60 (needs at least that amount to function) with a maximum PSI of 100. I typically set my compressor around 70.

If this is your first time using your stapler, you may want to practice a few times in a piece of scrap wood just to get a feel for the trigger.

Step 5: Attach your fabric and batting

When stapling you want to work from the middle of the frame outward. For this tutorial the “top” of your chair will be the part furthest away from you and the “bottom” will be the part closest to you. We are working on the underside of the seat (the part you don’t see when it’s attached).

Working at the top middle of your seat, pull the fabric taught over the wood frame. You want it to be tight but don’t pull it so tight it skews the pattern. Place one staple in the middle of the wood to secure.

Go to the bottom of your frame and do the same, securing with one staple. I like to pause here and flip the seat over just to make sure everything looks right before I continue.

Note: As you are stapling, be sure not to cover up the screw holes used to attach your seat. If this happens, you can always trim out a little notch for them. No big deal, but better to avoid.

Continue pulling the fabric taught over the frame and securing with staples across both the top and bottom of your frame. Stop before you get to the corners.

Turn your seat 90 degrees and repeat the process, beginning in the top middle with one staple, then the bottom middle with one staple. Work all the way across but stop before you get to the corners.

Step 6: Securing the corners

Note: There are many ways to “do” corners. This is just one way, but I personally find it the easiest.

If your chair is all squared off on the corners and has no weird posts or notches, lucky you!

To secure the corner, trim off any excess bulky batting that may be in the way on the underside of the chair. If there is too much bulk, the chair won’t sit flat on the chair frame. Don’t trim it so short that it won’t cover the corner though! You still want it to have a nice smooth edge.

Pull the corner of the fabric straight in. This will be at a 45 degree angle to the sides of your chair. Hold it taught (or secure with one staple or a push pin).

Next fold the fabric on the side straight up as if you were continuing to secure it like you did a minute ago. Secure it with a staple.

You will next be folding the adjoining side’s fabric upward but take a moment to trim any bulky excess fabric that may be in the way. Now fold the adjoining side upward and secure with a staple or two.

Secure everything with a few more staples. Trim off any excess fabric from the underside of your dining chair. Don’t trim too close to the staples. I like to leave an inch or two.

Step 7: Weird corners and notches

Oh why must there be weird corners, right? I try to think of notched cutouts like several littler corners just back to back. I still pull the fabric up into the notch at a 45 degree angle, fold it upward at the sides, and secure, but I have to do that twice. It’s easier to see in the YouTube video above. I couldn’t possibly address every type of corner and chair situation in this tutorial, but quite honestly sometimes you just have to play around with folds until it looks right. Do be cautious making any cuts or slits to your fabric, as you don’t want them to show when your chair is reattached!

Step 8: Reattach your seat to the chair frame

Use your screwdriver and screws to reattach your seat to the frame. If you can’t access the holes due to fabric being in the way, you can carefully cut little notches to expose the screw holes.

Yay! How exciting! You just reupholstered a dining chair seat!

Reupholstering a Dining Chair Without Removing Old Fabric

It is entirely possible to just skip the part about removing the old fabric and batting and to put new fabric right on top. This may be a good option for you if:

• The existing foam and batting is in good condition.
• Your new fabric is thick enough that the old will not show through.
• You want to save time and money.

Here are some occasions on which this would NOT work:

• The old fabric is filthy and smelly (it will eventually come through the new fabric).
• The old fabric and batting are very thick. Adding new fabric on top will make the seat too thick to sit properly on the chair frame.
• The old fabric will show through the new fabric.

I once reupholstered a pair of dining chairs that had FIVE layers of fabric on them! Yes, five! I could literally see the decades going by as I peeled away each layer – the 2000s, the 90s, 80s, 60s, and most likely the 40s! It was fascinating to say the least.

Attaching new fabric over existing fabric is exactly what I did for my vintage desk chair (which is actually a dining chair). I explain my decision in the video.

I hope this has been a useful and informative tutorial and that you now feel confident to reupholster a dining chair!

If you have any questions on how to reupholster a dining chair, please feel free to drop a comment below or message me on social media and I will do my best to answer it for you.

If you found this tutorial helpful, please be sure to save it for later or send it to a friend who would enjoy it!

Sharing is caring!

Thanks for reading!

Blessings,
Melissa

This post contains affiliate links for which I may earn a small commission on qualifying purchases. Please click here for more details. I truly appreciate your support!

Two and a half years I ago I bought this cabinet at an estate sale with the intention of painting it, but never did. Here’s why:

You know how there’s this certain guilty feeling that comes around when you really want to change something, but the thing you want to change is “nice” or “good quality” or others would probably be upset by the very fact that you did such a thing? That was me with this cabinet.

I found out about this particular estate sale via a Facebook ad on the last day it was going. Usually by the third day all the good stuff is gone or there’s a herd of people throwing elbows to get the remaining stuff clearanced. It was pretty sparse when I got there – with only an hour left to the sale most everything was gone except for a few furniture items. I had gone to the sale specifically looking for this cabinet and a black Windsor chair – both of which I had seen in the ad – totally expecting them to already be gone…

…lo and behold they were both still there! Not only were they still there but they were half off. The original asking price for the cabinet was $300. It was down to $150, so I offered $100 figuring they’d probably like to get it off their hands…and they accepted! It was definitely a close call, though – I had taken the tag off the cabinet and carried it with me to the front table. Just as they accepted my offer, a gentleman came up behind me asking the sales people how much the cabinet was and if it was still for sale! Yikes! Guess it was meant to be.

I bought the cabinet with the intention of painting it. As soon as I got it home (with the very generous help of my In-Laws!), my husband cried, “don’t paint it!” seeing the lovely tiger stripe wood.

I admitted it was nice vintage wood.

And so it sat, in my basement, for 2.5 years, piled with stuff, with me never really loving it and it feeling too dark and heavy and uninspiring….

…until a few weeks ago when I finally said, “You know what? It makes no sense – keeping something a way I don’t like it just because I’m supposed to value and like it that way.”

And so I painted it.

And I love it.

This was my first time working with milk paint.

I used Miss Mustard Seed’s Milk Paint in “Lucketts Green” for the exterior and “Linen” for the interior. I wanted something cheerful and fun and this definitely fit the bill! I purchased the paint from a lady on Ebay who was clearing out her supply after closing her shop. Mine was the original formula; they’ve since changed their paint formula to be completely natural and eco-friendly. You can find retailers that sell the paint here.

The paint was super easy to use – you literally just mix the powder together with water in a container, wait a few minutes, mix again, then paint away! I used a 1:1 ratio of paint to water but you can adjust according to what amount of coverage you want. I just used a regular old paint brush from the hardware store.

One thing I did find was that keeping a light hand while painting produced a better result – pushing too hard seemed to rub the paint off as I went.

Also, be sure to clean your piece before beginning. I like to give my furniture pieces a quick wipe down with Simple Green All-purpose Cleaner – it takes away grease, odors, and dirt.

I am seriously enjoying my cabinet so much more now! It makes me smile when I see it. I’ve even intentionally gone over to my craft area for no other reason than to just smile at my cabinet.

I hope the biggest take away you get from this post is not so much painting furniture or using milk paint, but to stay true to your style – to make your space one that makes you smile, no matter if other people like it or not.

I mean, if other people live in your house you have to respect that…but you know what I mean!

Happy creating!

Blessings,
Melissa

This post contains affiliate links for which I may earn a small commission on qualifying purchases. Please click here for more details. I truly appreciate your support!

This post contains affiliate links for which I may earn a small commission on qualifying purchases. Please click here for more details. I truly appreciate your support!

I’ve had this dresser since I was a young girl. I distinctly remember getting it for Christmas one year (I was the type that asked for furniture and decor – go figure, ha!). I loved it for many years and it served me well. Once I got married and it moved with me into our house, however, it was a huge, heavy piece in our little master bedroom. (The poor wall and curtain choices didn’t help, but that’s a discussion for another time!)

We lived with it like that for nearly 6 years. When it came time to finally makeover our bedroom, however, I knew something about the dresser needed to change! I was going to either make over the existing dresser or find a new one entirely.

I should just tell you that this is going to be a short post because it was such a simple makeover! But that’s a good thing, right?!

The first simple step in lightening up the dresser was removing the trifold mirror and replacing it with a free-hanging round mirror.

I fell in love with this one from Homegoods:

The second step was patching, cleaning, taping, and painting. That’s several steps but they’re so brief that we’re grouping them.

Before I painted, I removed all the hardware and filled the hardware holes in just the top drawers. They had 2.5 inch spacing while all the other drawers had 3 inch spacing. I had already chosen my hardware and wanted to use all the same size. I highly recommend selecting specific hardware before you paint. That way you’ll know if you need to patch holes, sand, etc. I used Varathane Wood Filler in Natural. Just fill in the holes and sand down the excess at the top once dry. You may need several coats depending on the depth of the hole.

I then gave the dresser a good cleaning. I love using Simple Green Cleaning Spray for prepping furniture pieces. It removes dirt, residue, and smells.

Next I used some Frog Tape to tape off the top of the dresser. I wanted to leave the wood top as it was and just paint the body.

For the paint, I chose Fusion Mineral Paint in “Victorian Lace.”

If you’re not familiar with Fusion Mineral Paint, it’s a fantastic line and I definitely recommend checking them out. You can visit their website to view the color selection, read about the benefits of the their products, and find a local or online retailer.

I ended up needing three coats to completely get rid of brush strokes over the dark finish. It dries to the touch quite quickly, so re-coat time is pretty fast. I just use whatever decent quality paint brush we have available in the house – nothing terribly fancy or expensive.

I painted the drawer fronts separately out on the driveway.

Finally, after everything was completely dry, I attached the new hardware.

My husband sweetly surprised me and drilled new holes in the top drawers for me while I was napping one day (I was very pregnant), so I didn’t need to do it.

For the hardware I chose a vintage-inspired yet simple pull in “Antique Bronze.”

Then I spent a ton of time deliberating over the top of the dresser – Refinish it? Leave it? Stain it darker or bleach it natural? I finally decided just to leave it for now.

Is it slightly more red than I would like? Yes. Is it unthinkably vile? Haha, no – at least I don’t think so. Plus, it currently has a very smooth and durable factory finish which I’d hate to destroy if I’m not 100% positive what I want.

There’s definitely something to be said for taking the time to be certain about a decision and knowing one’s personal limits. Refinishing a dresser top at 37 weeks pregnant was not something I really wanted to take on. I’ll live with it for a few months and if I would still like to change it then I’ll refinish it later.

In working with my decision to keep the existing top, I purposely chose a tall vase that has a similar dark rusty color around the top. This continues the dresser hue upward and connects it with the natural wood trim of the mirror, helping to better harmonize the contrasting tones.

It’s amazing how so simple a makeover can yield such big results. The piece feels so much lighter in the room now – it’s like a weight has been lifted.

In case you’re wondering about sources for decor and the room, I’ve listed them here:

Mirror, Tall Vase, Short Vase, & Lamp: Homegoods
Faux Eucalyptus Stems: Target Hearth & Hand
Faux Potted Fern: Target
Books: Cozy White Cottage & Wild Creations
Rug: Boutique Rugs
Bed Skirt: Amazon
Dresser Paint: Fusion Mineral Paint Victorian Lace
Dresser Hardware: Amazon
Wall Color: Winds Breath by Behr

Thanks so much for following along – I hope you found this simple makeover inspiring. Sometimes it’s the simple changes that make a big difference!

Found this inspiring? Pin it!

Blessings,
Melissa

This post contains affiliate links for which I may earn a small commission on qualifying purchases. Please click here for more details. I truly appreciate your support!

I always enjoyed road trips with my dad when he would take me to visit colleges or when he’d drive me back up to school in the Fall. We’d listen to all our favorite music, stop for iced coffee, and talk while I worked on my latest crocheting project. Well we brought the tradition back recently with a mini road trip to go pick up my latest Facebook Marketplace find – this old vintage sideboard for my basement studio! Thanks, dad!

I got this diamond-in-the-rough for $35. I decided I would try cleaning her up and see how she looked – I could always paint her as a last resort. She was missing a door and a drawer knob, had most of the top veneer chipped off, and was downright dirty. She even came with miscellaneous items inside including a spilled box of carpet tacks and an old metal spring. But boy did she have CHARACTER!

Here are the steps I took in cleaning up this old beauty:

1. Remove the back mirror.

I knew before purchasing that I wouldn’t need the mirror, so we removed it and set it aside in case we ever want it. It’s totally reasonable to remove part of a furniture piece if it doesn’t work for your needs!

2. Strip off broken veneer.

Most of the veneer on the top was already gone, leaving giant splintery chunks like this along the edges:

I used a large flathead screwdriver and a hammer to chisel off the chunks and pry the veneer off the sides of the top piece. It came up pretty easily for the most part, with a few little stubborn sections that we got off using a hand plane (which worked quite well!). Be sure to wear eye protection and gloves while doing this – those little splinters go flying everywhere!

The veneer on the inside floor of the cabinet was also in rough shape – buckling and bubbling from water damage – so I stripped off all of that as well.

3. Smooth down the top with a belt sander.

My husband volunteered to use the belt sander to smooth down the top for me. I gladly accepted his offer since he’s experienced with that tool and got the job done a lot more quickly than I would have (plus my brother recently borrowed and burned out my little sander, so I currently don’t have one…boo). The top was so splintery before that it definitely would have given me splinters while working, but now it’s nice and smooth!

4. Clean, clean, clean!

Now that all the chiseling, sanding, and general dust-making were finished, it was time to clean this dirty piece! I started by brushing off all the sawdust with a whisk broom, used a dust buster to get up larger bits of grit and grime, then gave the whole piece a good wipe down with rags and a diluted solution of Simple Green.

I love this product for cleaning and prepping furniture! It’s non-toxic and biodegradable, plus it’s amazing at removing grease and odors! You can either use it full strength or dilute it. My mom’s been using it for years to clean her house, including greasy kitchen cabinets.

See how much better it’s looking already with a good cleaning! Let it dry completely before moving to the next step. Wish I moved that quickly in real life…haha.

5. Modifications

What I mean by this is that I removed the lone door from its hinges and set it aside in case I want it later. From the start I planned to remove the door rather than try to replace the missing one. It made me a little sad to take it off, but I knew I had a plan for those openings – large, pretty baskets! While cleaning out the cabinet I found the missing drawer knob (yay!), so I replaced it using a larger screw since the original had been stripped. At this point I also went through and tightened all the screws in the cabinet. Don’t be afraid to be creative when modifying a vintage piece – you’re not going to “ruin” it by removing something that doesn’t look right to you or work for your space. The whole point is that the piece is enjoying new life in its new home with you!

6. Boiled Linseed Oil

What is boiled linseed oil? Linseed oil moisturizes and deepens the existing finish of a piece. It is derived from the ripened seeds of the flax plant. It comes in both raw and boiled varieties – the boiled kind has gone through a treatment process and has a considerably shorter curing time than raw (we’re talking hours/days vs. weeks or months!). It’s great for restoring furniture that is bare wood or wood previously treated with oil (not recommended for oak). Painted and/or waxed wood will have to be stripped before applying linseed oil as the paint/wax will prevent the wood from absorbing the oil. (Linseed oil is also used for improving the flow of oil-based paints.)

I would not recommend using boiled linseed oil on a piece that you may later wish to stain with a water-based varnish, as the oil will close up the pores too much to absorb a water-based product. An oil based varnish or a gel-stain would probably work okay (possibly not as deeply) and you can certainly paint over an oiled surface once it has completely cured, but may need to rough it up with some fine sand paper and clean it first.

It is absolutely amazing what a difference boiled linseed oil can make!

How to use boiled linseed oil:

Once your wood is clean and dry, apply a small-moderate amount of the oil to a lint-free cloth and gently wipe onto the wood. Let it stand for a few minutes, then use a clean lint-free rag to gently buff off the excess. Let dry completely. It’s that simple!

That being said, it’s incredibly important to use boiled linseed oil safely, as it is highly combustable. This article from The Craftsman Blog has a great overview on using linseed oil safety!

7. Wax the drawers

The drawers on this piece did not slide smoothly – in fact they were quite stuck! To assist them, I simply used a chunk of paraffin wax rubbed along the edges of the drawers. It made a huge difference!

8. Paint the inside of the cabinet

The inside of the cabinet was very dark and water-stained. Since I planned to use it sans doors and display pretty baskets in those openings, I decided to paint the inside white to brighten it up and help the baskets pop.

When it comes to hiding water stains, a stain-blocking primer is the best bet. We’ve been pleased with Zinsser Bulls Eye over the years and that’s what I used on this project. You can easily add any other paint/color you desire over the primer. I’ve also come to realize that I much prefer using Frog Tape for my painting projects over the original blue painter’s tape I grew up using. It’s just “meatier” and easier to pull off in my opinion.

That’s it! Then came the fun of styling my refurbished cabinet!

You can find all the details and sources for this space in this blog post on my studio makeover, part 1.

Is it perfect? No, of course not – it’s old and vintage! But it’s so much better and more functional. That’s the beauty in this – getting to enjoy a vintage piece that has been made functional and enjoyable once again.

Sometimes all a piece of furniture needs is someone to see the potential in it. To quote Linus from A Charlie Brown Christmas, “Maybe all it needed was a little love.”

Have you ever finished a project, only to have to immediately redo it? I have…

It’s worth it, though! I would much rather have a project done the right way even if it means redoing it. Besides, don’t we learn so much along the way?

This little table resided for many years in the music room at my church. It was very worn and in need of some TLC. They asked me if I’d redo it and I readily agreed!

While spots of the wood were still beautiful, the table was very beat-up, with one corner down to raw, dry wood.

One knob was missing and all the other knobs were broken. Its top was warped and one corner was pulling up.

It should be noted that the finish of the table was not entirely stain – the top and sides were merely old, brown paint. I tried sanding off some of the paint to see what was underneath, and the wood was less than impressive – not nearly as beautiful as the stained wood on the front.

Still, I could not bring myself to paint over all of the beautiful old patina. Thus I came to the decision to preserve some of the stained wood but paint the roughest parts. I would also replace the knobs.

Fusion Mineral Paint to the rescue! Have I mentioned how much I love this paint? No, they’re not telling me to say this, haha. Just the way it goes on so smoothly, is self-leveling, and has great coverage in such a beautiful array of sophisticated colors makes my furniture-painting self oh so happy! Even my husband, who is pretty particular about the diy products he uses, commented that it’s “really nice paint.” Ultimate endorsement!

I already had a few Fusion colors on hand, so I decided to try making my own blend.

I used 3 parts Heirloom to 1 part Coal Black.

This resulted in a color I dubbed “Vintage Country Blue.” I loved it so much!

To spruce up the stained parts I was keeping, I applied some boiled linseed oil. Use a clean, lint-free cotton rag to apply a thin layer to your wood, then gently wipe off any excess and let it dry. It’s that simple and it makes such an amazing difference in the richness of the wood!

I used the linseed oil on both the drawer fronts and the feet of the table.

To replace the knobs, I ordered these from Amazon. I wanted something simple and classic and they fit the bill.

Here’s a tip for painting knobs – attach them to a piece of cardboard using screws. Just poke a hole through the cardboard with the screw and attach the knob on top. This will help you keep the knob stable and turn it more easily while painting without getting paint on your fingers!

Another tip – if you set your project piece up on canned goods, it will make it easier to get to the very bottom of the feet. In my case, I wasn’t painting the feet, but it made it easier to rub them with the boiled linseed oil. I use the cans upside down so that when I open them I don’t get chippy paint in the peaches.

To fix the popping-up tabletop, my handy hubby installed a bracket inside the table. I know nothing about it other than it helped!

Once everything was dry and reassembled, this little table made its way back to church….

…and it looked SO out of place.

My “vintage country blue,” which worked perfectly with my style, didn’t fit the choir room at all. The “choir room” is actually the old sanctuary with super high ceilings, wood beams, arched stone doorways, lots of wood paneling, and so on.

When choosing a color, I had drawn on the cool tones of the stone archways but had not considered the warm, reddish tones of all the wood paneling and furniture.

The table came back home with me for a second try.

Fusion Mineral to the rescue again! This time I went with Bayberry, a warm, sophisticated green reminiscent of a painted harpsichord.

It worked so much better.

Unfortunately my photos with the green are not nearly so styled and staged as the blue, as I was pressed for time and just needed some final photos. The lighting was also not as great, so these don’t fully do it justice.

Please just believe me when I say it works SO much better in the space!

So what’s the moral of this twice-painted story?

1. It’s not just about what one likes – it’s about what works well in the intended space.

2. A project is worth redoing to get it right – always.

This post contains affiliate links. Click here for info.

Our final video in this Chair Project series addresses:

• Making a no-sew upholstered cushion with piping

Note: This is an upholstered cushion, not a removable cushion cover. It is semi-permanent (could pull it off if you want to change the fabric someday), but is a great no-sew option for normal, moderate use. Not recommended for high-traffic and heavy duty use (kids, pets, etc.).

I recommend watching this full screen, due to the vertical nature of the video. To watch full screen, click the “Youtube” button in the box below.

You can find my supplies linked here, in my Amazon Storefront.

And here is a link to the fabric I’m using – Covington Musee Toile Blue.

I’m happy to help if I can – please feel free to email me with any questions you might have!

Watch Previous Steps:

Part 1: Deconstruction
Part 2: Choosing Materials
Part 3: Upholstering
Part 4: Piping
(You’re on part 5)

This post contains affiliate links – click here for details.

Our next video in this Chair Project series addresses:

• Making and attaching decorative piping.

I recommend watching this full screen, due to the vertical nature of the video. To watch full screen, click the “Youtube” button in the box below.

You can find most of my supplies linked here, in my Amazon Storefront.

And here is a link to the fabric I’m using – Covington Musee Toile Blue.

I’m happy to help if I can – please feel free to email me with any questions you might have!

Continue Watching:

Part 1: Deconstruction
Part 2: Choosing Materials
Part 3: Upholstering
(You’re on part 4)
Part 5: Cushion

This post contains affiliate links – click here for details.

Our next video in this Chair Project series addresses:

• Attaching the batting and fabric with upholstery staples.
• Cutting foam for a chair cushion.

I recommend watching this full screen, due to the vertical nature of the video. To watch full screen, click the “Youtube” button in the box below.

You can find most of my supplies linked here, in my Amazon Storefront.

And here is a link to the fabric I’m using – Covington Musee Toile Blue.

I’m happy to help if I can – please feel free to email me with any questions you might have!

Continue Watching:

Part 1: Deconstruction
Part 2: Choosing Materials
(You’re on part 3)
Part 4: Piping
Part 5: Cushion

This post contains affiliate links – click here for details.

Our next video in this Chair Project series addresses:

• What to consider when choosing a fabric for your project.
• Determining how much fabric and other supplies are needed.

I recommend watching this full screen, due to the vertical nature of the video. To watch full screen, click the “Youtube” button in the box below.

You can find most of my supplies linked here, in my Amazon Storefront.

And here is a link to the fabric I’m using – Covington Musee Toile Blue.

I’m happy to help if I can – please feel free to email me with any questions you might have!

Continue Watching:

Part 1: Deconstruction
(You’re on part 2)
Part 3: Upholstering
Part 4: Piping
Part 5: Cushion

This post contains affiliate links – click here for details.

It was one of those love at first finds and I rapidly hit the “Is this still available?” message button, expecting it to already be gone. Lo and behold, it was still available and the sweet lady was even willing to deliver it to my house because it wouldn’t fit in my car, plus I have two small children. (I did give her some gas money.) It was so special to hear how the chair had been used for reading stories before bed every night with her children. I feel honored to be giving such a cherished and well-loved piece a second chance at life.

It had beautiful bones, but was certainly in need of some TLC. (You can see the original fabric in the video below.) I purchased it for my “creative corner” in the basement – a work still in progress – with plans to reupholster it.

It’s been slow-going, working here and there whenever I get the chance. Having two toddlers around makes projects go a bit more slowly (but that’s okay).

I thought you might like to come along for the ride. So without further ado…

Chair Reupholstery Project: Part 1: Deconstruction

I thought it would be much, much easier to share this in video form rather than try to type it all out. So here we go! Apologies for the poor video quality – I recorded it on my phone for Instagram stories before I thought about needing to upload it to the blog!

I recommend watching this full screen due to the vertical nature of the video. To watch full screen, click the “Youtube” button in the box below.

This is just the first step! Next comes cleaning, figuring out how much fabric and supplies are needed, and finally putting it all together. I’ll be sharing more videos in the coming days/weeks so stay tuned!

You can find a list of my upholstery supplies here, in my Amazon Storefront (affiliate link).

Continue Watching:

Part 2: Choosing Materials & Supplies
Part 3: Upholstering
Part 4: Piping
Part 5: Cushion